City Guide: Los Angeles

Leaving the Beloved Animal to Create a Critic’s Darling in Koreatown

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Getting the Dirt with Abbott Kinney Up-and-Comer Scott Winegard

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Reinventing Chicken Wings in Culver City

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Vegan Mexican Food Was This Chef’s Lifelong Dream—Now It’s an A-List Hotspot

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Dining in an 1876 Cathedral with Neal Fraser

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Waking Up A Tired Stretch of Melrose with New Wave Riviera Cuisine

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Seating the Stars at an Old-School Hollywood Institution

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Queen of the Chop
In L.A., trends come and go, but Jar’s stalwart chef keeps it steady with her 16-year-old classic

Imagine opening a restaurant just a few days before 9/11. That’s exactly what chef Suzanne Tracht did, and not only did Jar miraculously survive those dour economic times, it thrived. Sixteen years later, the dining room is still packed—every single night. It’s palpable that the classic coziness of the dining room and the feeling of being among family is what keeps Jar’s regulars regular, and first-time diners wanting to be permanents. Also, Suzanne Tracht, chef and owner since Day One, makes a damn good chop. “It's a restaurant where if you want to come in and have that big old honking pork shank or if you want to come in and just have a great piece of fish and some farmers market baby broccoli, you can. You can eat here a couple times a week or a couple times a month, which many people do,” Tracht says proudly. Jar is most famous for its pot roast, which Tracht says they put on the menu when the restaurant opened, “Just for the hell of it.” While Tracht can always be found at the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, she is adamant about sourcing her pork and veal from Amish farms in Iowa and Pennsylvania. “It’s the best. I definitely pay a price for it, but I like getting great quality and then making it minimal. Not dressing it up, putting a bunch of sauces and this and that.” In a city that’s been known to create food spectacles just for their Instagram potential—sushi burritos and donut ice cream sandwiches, anyone?—one can feel confident (and comforted) that Jar will be here for at least another sixteen years.

Jar
Find a table
8225 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
(323) 655-6566

The classic coziness of the dining room and the feeling of being among family is what keeps Jar’s regulars regular, and first-time diners wanting to be permanents.